A paradise called Amanu
After Pitcairn, just within the southern hemisphere, the Tecla crosses the equator once more and sails towards the Tuamotu Archipelago. An idyllic setting of sandy islands fringed with palm trees.
17°32.3’S 141°33.9’W // heading 235° // speed 5.6 kn
On Monday morning, the 29th, we found the entrance to the first Tuamotu island, with an opening large enough for the Tecla to sail through. We waited, drifting just off the island’s coast, for the ebb tide. At 09:00 it was low tide – after that, about half an hour to an hour later, the ebbtide would stop and the tide would get in gain. So around 09:30 we began to sail into the entrance.
One thing was certain: it was low tide, as we could clearly see the seabed and the shallows right next to the entrance. But the tide was still flowing outwards at a speed of 4 to 5 knots…
White-water rafting
Once you’ve decided to sail in, you really have to see it through – there’s little chance of turning back or making a mistake. The waves generated by the outgoing current could even be heard above the sound of the engine. It felt just like white-water rafting, and the outflow could even cause a slight difference in water level. The adrenaline was rushing through my veins. I clutched my coffee mug tightly, as if it would give me something to hold on to. I squeezed the mug so hard that my knuckles turned white. Meanwhile, the engine was doing all the work and we crept forward at 1.5 knots against the current.
On the bank, we saw people watching us. We waved to one another and carried on. The entrance ends with a sharp bend to starboard, and once we’d passed that, everyone felt relieved. There was a lot of giggling – including from me. We dropped anchor near the village of Ikitake and went ashore straight away. We were warmly welcomed by the small community of 155 residents. After a friendly welcome from the mayor, we went for a walk through the village, visited a small shop and had a chat with the man who had once carved the piece of wood for the necklace I wear, in the shape of the Pito – a coral reef in the middle of the atoll.
No ice creams
Although a community like this may not be able to offer the ice creams some were hoping for, you soon gain an insight into life on such a small island. Their dependence on the cargo ship and their reluctance to receive too many visitors are clear. Limiting the number of visits by cruise ships is important to preserve their integrity as a community. They make a living from fishing and collecting copra, which doesn’t bring in much, but they want to preserve their way of life – which is a wonderful story in itself.
Snorkelling
Once everyone was back on board, we weighed anchor and set course straight for Pito. This coral formation in the middle of the atoll is a spectacular snorkelling spot. And as the mayor said: if you haven’t been there, you haven’t really been to Amanu. We stayed on Pito for over two hours before returning to Ikitake. We had a sundowner on deck, watched the moon rise and the sun set, and enjoyed a barbecue outside in tropical temperatures. What a day. The next morning, we headed to another part of the atoll to have a wander and do some more snorkelling, before setting off again, ready for the next Tuamotu island.
The departure was less spectacular than the arrival. With a 2-knot counter-current and the rising tide, it was a controlled and comfortable sail – much better than if we’d had a 5-knot tail current.
Back on the move
And now we’re sailing again. We’re on a course with the wind at our backs towards Tahanea, our next destination. We’ve already jibed once to avoid getting too close to a smaller atoll, and are generally making about 6 knots. With many more gybes ahead of us, we still have about 180 miles to go in a straight line. I can hear the propeller whirring, and occasionally a light breeze finds its way up the stairs to the stern. It’s a beautiful night, with a clear, almost full moon.
All’s well on board,
Jet